You can download the plans shown here from the Building Plans Page and print them out yourself. You'll want the plans labeled "6" Circular Fieldstone Plans".

Start by gluing the floor tiles together but don't glue them down to the layout! We will need to use this layout sheet several more times.

The outside ring of tiles will be a little large, so sand one of the ends and it will fit correctly.

To help keep the tower round, place a roll of paper towels inside of the tower. You may to remove a few sheets to get the diameter small enough to fit. As you assemble and glue the remaining rows, leave the paper towels in. This will help all of the rows line up and keep your tower circular round.

Here's row 2, 3 and 4. The blocks shown in red are small blocks used to hold the place of the doorway. These blocks will be removed once the glue dries.

Complete row 5 by setting the blocks on but do not glue them down!

Flip this row over and glue it onto the tower but do not glue where the marked lines are! Remember, you want to remove this section later on.

Row 7 is pretty simple. Just glue the blocks down as the photo shows.

If you cast the mold exactly 24 times you will end up missing one of the small regular blocks. To fix this, simply snap one of the long flat blocks in half and stack the pieces. This represents what the green block is.

Here's a photo of the back wall. I added it here so you can get a good look at what blocks make up this solid area. It needs to be solid because a staircase will eventually go here.

Be sure the top of each step section lines up with the top of each row. Then glue on row 11 and mark the blocks (and step piece) as shown. This will remind you where not to glue for the next row.

Sand the edge of an outside block to make the outside circle slightly smaller, just like we did in step 1. Add row 15 with the blocks upside down as the photo shows.

Just glue the blocks in an alternating pattern like you have been doing. Also be sure that you're gluing the blocks on upside down as the photo shows.

Let this section dry completely! Once dry, we will have to turn this section onto it's side to put the stairs in.

Be sure that the last step get positioned so that the green surfaces are level with each other. This will ensure that the stairs will seamlessly mesh with the tower section below.

Let the steps dry completely!

This is fairly easy to fix. Take one of the small tooth sections and break it in half. This is easy to do just using your hands.

Now break another small tooth section into thirds as the small photo shows. Use a hobby knife to trim down any excess.

Place the middle third from one tooth block in between the two halves of the first tooth block to fill the gaps in that section.

Place blocks down to fill up the row but do not glue them down!

Temporarily set the top section on so that the stairs join together properly.

Apply glue to the loose blocks on row 11 only.

Now set the top section back on so that your mark lines up. This will glue the loose blocks to the top section and the steps should line up.

Row 18 (the very last row), uses the top decorative teeth for the crenellations. I centered these teeth over the arches, but you can space them out as you like.

The bottom is a flat tile snapped in half along with two top decorations.

The long teeth on the top have the ends broken off so they're not quite so long. Also take note on which section of the tower these pieces are glued to.

Be sure you don't glue it to the middle section or you won't be able to get the tower apart again.

If you like, you can use the floor tiles from mold #72 to fill in the roof, so you don't have a hole in the center. The orc figures are from Games Workshop(TM). The other figures are from Holistic Desing(TM).