How To Assemble Mold #81
| 1. |
When casting mold #81, be sure to scrape it completely flat! You do not want any plaster humping up out of the pockets of the mold. If any plaster rounds upward then your blocks will not fit together correctly.
Scraping off a little too much is OK. The pieces will still fit together if the bottom of them is a little concave. |
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| 2. |
If any of the blocks hump up on the bottom, you can lightly sand the bottom to make them flat.
If the bottom is concave, do not sand off any ridges around the outside edge of the piece. Removing these ridges will make the piece too short to fit well. |
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| 3. |
These are the blocks you will get with one casting of the mold. These have been cast in dark gray dental stone.
If you happen to cast mold 81 and 82 at the same time, then I stongly suggest you group together the blocks from mold 81 and put them in a separate pile from mold 82.
This will make sorting the blocks a lot easier. You will find that sorting the blocks is a little more difficult with these molds. |
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| 4. |
The 3 inch "L" piece.
Gather the pieces shown here.
Glue the ridge piece on top of the center of the base. |
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| 7. |
This is what the finished "L" shape cave wall piece looks like when painted.
This piece is meant to be used to cover the 4 squares shown on the grid to the right. |
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| 9. |
Finish the piece by gluing the top of the stalagmite on.
This is what the finished corner wall piece looks like when painted.
This piece is meant to be used to cover the 3 squares shown on the grid to the right. |
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| 11. |
This is what the finished corner wall piece looks like when painted.
This piece is meant to be used to cover the 2 squares shown on the grid to the right. |
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| 14. |
The wooden door halves glues together edge-to-edge.
The arch is glued on top of the door post, but be sure the flat side of the door post is facing towards the door.
If you want to glue the door in permanently, you will need to sand the tips of the door arch down. |
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How To Assemble Mold #82
| 1. |
These are the blocks you will get with one casting of the mold. These have been cast in dark gray dental stone.
If you happen to cast mold 81 and 82 at the same time, then I stongly suggest you group together the blocks from mold 81 and put them in a separate pile from mold 82.
This will make sorting the blocks a lot easier. You will find that sorting the blocks is a little more difficult with these molds. |
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| 2. |
The stair builder piece.
Gather the pieces shown here.
Glue the ridge piece on top of the center of the base. |
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| 3. |
Glue the top of the stalagmite.
With this piece you can stack up floor tiles around it for a circular staircase.
This can also be used for a 2" wall piece even though it stick out into a room a little. |
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| 4. |
The second corner piece.
Gather the pieces shown here.
This corner takes up the same amount of squares as the "first corner piece" above. |
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| 5. |
The 2" wall piece.
Gather the pieces shown here.
Glue the "3 stalagmite" piece on the left side of the base. Glue the rock onto the right side of the base. |
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| 6. |
This is what the finished 2" wall section looks like.
It takes up 2 squares on the grid. |
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| 8. |
Crate, barrel and skull pile.
This mold includes a barel, crate and skull pile. There is a hole in the top of the skull pile that you can stick a toothpick in and make a torch.
However, you will need to nip off part of the pointed end of the toothpick so it will insert properly. The torch is made from cotton wrapped around and painted. |
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Sample Layouts Using the Molds
Here are a couple of sample layouts using the water cavern wall molds. Click on a photo to see a larger version of it. The floors you see are from molds #281 and #282.
To see complete instructions on using these cavern wall molds, please see our Water Cavern Building Instructions page.
http://www.hirstarts.com. All photos, articles and plans are copyrighted by Bruce Hirst and may not be used without permission. "Castlemolds(R)" is a registered trademark of Hirst Arts Fantasy Architecture Inc. For more information contact bruce@hirstarts.com. Page last updated 11/27/07
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